Mick’s PC minimums

For Macintosh minimums, click here.

When shopping for a computer, the fine print DOES matter.  What follows is my professional opinion (as of January 1, 2008 anyway) regarding the component specifications.  “For the record” brand name components make more of a difference than a brand name system!

I'm also assuming you are not a NERD with the ability to pick my recommendations apart simply because you know the difference between PCI and PCI Express.  These recommendation are for the "average" user who needs a fast, reliable word processor, Internet capable, able to do your taxes type of system.  If you need something specific, e-mail me and ask.  Also, if you need something a little more "official", try the Recommended Specifications for Public Access Workstations in Federal Depository Libraries or Frederick County Virginia's Recommended Computer Specifications (56K PDF).

ABSOLUTE MINIMUMS

ü     Intel Duo Core 2 or AMD Athlon 64 X2 Dual Core.  Single core CPUs are cheaper, but so much slower that it is worth the money to get the dual cores.  And although these are both 64-bit CPUs, all 32-bit versions of the operating system and software will run and you will notice the difference in speed.

ü      What GHz speed? The faster the better, right?  Naturally, but don't WORRY about this one as much as getting the Duo or Dual Core mentioned above (unless you are a gamer).  Also, raw processor speed is not as important as how much RAM and storage space as you can afford.

ü      1G RAM minimum, 2G is better. This is THE item to "upgrade" whenever possible.  Period.

ü      Unless you are a serious "gamer" (a person who spends HOURS playing games), most any brand of video card, but one with at least 64M RAM.  Watch out for on-board or built-in video.  Most "share" (rob?) their RAM from your system RAM.  You will need to increase your system RAM if this is the case.  If you are a gamer, get a card that is at least an AGP 8x or, better still, a PCI Express with a minimum of 256M RAM (again, the more RAM the better).  If you are a gamer, get the Nvidia brand.  However, if you are going to do video or picture editing, take a serious look at the ATI "All-In-Wonder" series as these have all the connections for video/digital cameras, editing software, etc.

ü      For the WUHS network or DSL/Broadband at home, you need a 10/100Mb “NIC” (Network Interface Card).  If you can, get the 3Com or Intel brand; more money, but a more reliable product.  However, many motherboards come with an onboard NIC these days and will usually suffice.

ü      Make sure it has at least (2) USB 2.0 ports ON THE FRONT of the computer case. This is where a flash ("thumb") drives, digital cameras, scanners, webcams, etc., will plug in.  Most desktop systems come with 4-8, but notebooks don't have much room.  Believe it or not, some systems are now being sold ONLY with USB ports.  PS/2 (keyboard and mouse), parallel (the "old" printer port), and 9 or 25 pin serial are slowly becoming obsolete.  HOWEVER, having each of these will ALWAYS make your system more compatible with all those peripherals on the market (or already in your home/office).  Also, if you are into digital photography or video, most newer cameras are starting to offer Firewire (IEEE1394).  If your computer does NOT have this port, you may soon be upgrading your system.

ü      A 17” monitor is easier on the eyes than a 15”!!  And although LCD ("flat") panels do save space AND are easier on your eyes AND use less power, they will cost typically double that of the larger-sized CRT monitors.  It's up to you.  For notebooks, get at least a 15" XGA LCD.

ü      For the WUHS network, Windows XP Pro Service Pack 2 (SP2) is REQUIRED (the “Home Edition” WILL NOT WORK on this network).  For home use, Windows XP Home Edition is fine.  Windows XP Media Center Edition is only necessary if you plan to use your computer as an entertainment center.  Avoid all versions of Windows Vista for now.  There are simply too many compatibility issues right now.  Most vendors will still sell you a system with XP if you ask.  Yeah, I know... Linux is THE latest crazy.  Unless you are a true NERD, just don't.  Windows may be flawed, but it is easier for the common person to use and you will find help from friends easier to come by.

Most systems come with:

·        56K modem (which you only need on a home computer for dial-up Internet access)

·        Keyboard, mouse, sound card, and speakers.  For the average user, whatever it comes with is a good start.  You can get better speakers or a different keyboard/mouse later.  Do yourself a BIG favor with regards to the mouse, however, and get and OPTICAL mouse (has a light on the bottom rather than the little ball).  These are more accurate and don't require constant cleaning.

·        100G (or more) hard drive (rated at 7200rpm, not 5400rpm) with at least 4MB of cache memory.  I still prefer IDE to SATA because there are more recovery tools for IDE.  If you drive every crashes, you are more likely to have recoverable data on an IDE.  However, if you are a gamer the increased access time of SATA drives will prove useful.

·        50x CD-ROM or 16x DVD.  The larger the numbers, the faster it access the disc.  You only need DVD if you are a serious “gamer” or are into watching movies on your computer.  If you want to “burn” your own CDs, you will need a CD+/-RW.  To “burn” your own DVDs, you will need a DVD+/-RW.  “Dual Layer” discs are really only necessary if you are making/coping large movies and "LightScribe" is only necessary if you want to etch the label into the top of the disc like you see on those software/movie discs you purchase; for me, both are a luxury item that I wouldn't use enough to justify the cost of both the equipment AND the different blank discs you are forced to buy.  As for the manufacturer, MSI, Sony, or Panasonic are STRONGLY recommended over all the others.  Specifications -- like 48x32x48 -- are discussed in the BACKUP section later in this document.

Notebook (aka, Laptop) Considerations

First off, do you need/want a Windows or Macintosh based system. This will depend on the college of attendance or the place of employment. 90+% of the time, a Windows system is more mainstream, however some places are VERY "Mac-centric". Given this is the PC Minimums page and not the Mac Minimums page, the assumption is a Windows system for the remainder of this section. Also, consider the cost. Obviously, the more money you spend, the better, more durable, more enduring notebook you end up with. Those models under $700 are typically VERY stripped down and offer little room for upgrades/add-ons. If you are serious about a notebook, plan on $1,000 minimum. That being said, you may want to consider a GOOD desktop model. For less than $1,000, you have a rock-solid system... just not portable. Here again, the assumption is you are looking for a notebook.

Given the preceding, it boils down to 4 issues:

1. Strength.  Few brands offer AMD, so I will stick to Intel observations here.  In most cases, the better notebooks run the Core 2 Duo just like desktops and give you the same benefits as mentioned above.  However, note that the Intel Celeron or Pentium Dual Core are both cheaper.  Again, 1G of RAM will inevitably serve your better, but get 2G if you can afford it.  And the more battery life you buy, the longer you can use it at one time while sitting outside in the shade. Sometimes this means a second battery, sometimes simply buying a BETTER battery; this depends of the manufacturer of the battery. The thing to watch for is the battery's WHr (watts per hour usage) rating and the number of "cells". The bigger those numbers, not only the more watts available, but also the longer the battery life.
   

2. Multimedia.  Most notebooks don't come with a floppy drive (an external USB model is available if you just HAVE to have one), so you almost HAVE a flash drive (thumb drive, memory stick, etc.) or a CD-RW (a CD "burner") or DVD+/-RW (a DVD-capable "burner") just so you have a way of moving data on/off the notebook unless you want to carry around yet another piece of equipment.  I prefer the combo drives: a CD+/-RW and a DVD player built into a single drive. This way, you can watch DVD movies AND move/copy most data (just not movies) on/off. Also, the size of the screen is tricky to pick because the bigger the size does make it easier on the eyes, but will drain the battery faster.
    
3. Connectability.  Most notebooks come with a network card (NIC) to hook-up to a network (like at WHS) and a modem to dial-up to the Internet. However, wireless is not always standard and is something you probably want. This can add upwards of $100 to the cost of a notebook if it is "optional". The thing to look for is does the wireless NIC support 802.11A or B or G... or some combination of all three. You want G regardless and having A or B will mean access to "older" wireless systems. Also, Windows XP Pro is MUCH better than Windows XP Home because it works on networks… the Home version is for the HOME, not work.  As stated before, avoid all versions of Windows Vista until the compatibility issues are overcome.
   

4. Portability.  Do you really need a portable printer or will a standard one do?  Portables are expensive and make the overall load much heavier, but are VERY handy while "out and about".  This leads to question of a carrying case.  If only the notebook is to be carried about, a smaller case (the one that sometimes comes with the notebook) will suffice.  If the notebook and printer and cords and whatever else is going to be carried at one time, you will need a much larger case; maybe one with wheels... and that's only a partial joke.

BACKUP

You will absolutely, positively, without a shred of any doubt, need to backup your documents, bookmarks, and e-mail.  At WHS, if you save your work on the available servers (the H or P drives), this will be done for you.  However, for home use, you may want to look at alternatives to that small, slow floppy diskette drive.  Basically, there are two choices: flash ("thumb") drives or a CD/DVD burner.

A flash drive (thumb drive, memory stick, etc.) of at least 1G are more in size is best because it holds literally hundreds of times more data than a floppy disk, is MUCH faster than a floppy disk, AND can be used in both PC or Mac systems.

When it comes to CD+/-RW or a DVD+/-RW, it’s all about speed.  Most are sold using the NxNxN specification (40x32x40 for example).  Read this as: writing on a blank disc verses writing on a used disc verses reading a disc.  The bigger those numbers, the faster the drive.  Watch out, however, when purchasing blank discs!!  “Cheap” blank CD-R discs may not be certified for the speed of your drive.  For example, if your drive is “48x24x48”, you should purchase CD-R discs that are certified “48x” in speed and CD-RW discs certified “24x”.  Warning: the really “cheap” blanks are not rewritable (CD-R rather than CD-RW) which means that you can only write on them once.  Make sure you buy the right discs based on the desired type you need and speed requirements of your drive.

SCANNER

If you need a scanner, get one.  Most scanners can already scan 600x600 dpi, but the bigger those numbers the better the image quality and if you plan to enlarge what you scan, you want suffer from pixilation (blurry photos).  Also, look for at least a 36-bit scanner.  To make your decision easy, get a Hewlett-Packard (HP) brand.

PRINTER

Printers are a tough call because there are so many brands and most are good.  However, when I am shopping for an inkjet (since color is desirable, and VERY expensive on a laser), I tend to buy Epson or HP because they have caused me the least problems later on.  If you want a laser, getting an HP is your best (only?) choice.

Bottom line: when buying a printer of ANY kind/brand/type, check the cost of the ink or toner cartridges (the on-going costs can matter more than the initial price) and speed (“ppm”, pages per minute) in color and/or black.  DPI is another benchmark to compare by (a minimum of 600x600 is common), but don’t let this particular specification scare you away from a good deal.

For a more detailed analysis on printers, check out the Printer Buying Guide.

OTHER ISSUES

GET A SURGE SUPPRESSOR!  GET A SURGE SUPPRESSOR!!  GET A SURGE SUPPRESSOR!!!  This is THE most important thing to purchase with any new computer.  Look at this like buy insurance for your new car.

No, those $5 outlet strips don’t cut it.  A “surge suppressor” (not “protector”) will typically run you $25-40 per computer and IT IS WORTH EVERY CENT.  This item will protect you from an electrical surge whether your computer is on or not.  Look for a JOULE rating of 500 or more.  And remember, no more than three computers per one 15-amp circuit breaker.

If power blackouts (or, more importantly, brownouts) are common, a UPS (“uninterruptible power supply” a.k.a. battery backup) will probably save your computer some day.  The BIG difference between them is time.  The more money, the more minutes of battery life you get.  The better ones even offer to pay your insurance deductible if their product fails to protect your equipment.

INTERNET ACCESS

Dialup is to Internet what the wagonwheel is to the modern automobile: OUTDATED.  Simply put, using your modem to access the vast, content-rich world of the Internet is like shooting yourself in the foot at the beginning of a marathon.  Sure, you may still be able to move, but you will NOT keep up with the rest of us.

If DSL (Digital Subscriber Line) or Broadband access is available where you are... GET IT NOW!!!  DSL is up to 15x faster than dialup.  Broadband is up to 5x faster than DSL or 75x faster than dialup.  If you were driving your car at 55 mph, I would blaze past you at up to 6,000 mph on a good DSL/broadband connection.  Please tell me you understand the POWER of that in reference to the amount of time you save waiting for information on the Internet?!?!?

To make the most of your DSL or Broadband experience, your computer or notebook will need that NIC mentioned earlier.  Also, if you want to share your connection with multiple computers in your home, you will need a Router (typically with a built-in 4-port switch) and, if you so desire, one that comes with wireless access.

Regarding the router itself, there are the cheap, no frills version and then there are the ones with built-in firewall protection.  TRUST ME... if you can afford the optional firewall, buy one and SET IT UP NOW.

If you are wanting wireless, get at least the 802.11g version ("a" and "b" are slower, but are typically combined with the "g" models).  This will not only offer you better speed, but more compatibility with all the different wireless gadgets out there.  The "n" model is faster, but you only benefit from the increase if your notebook also has an "n" capable NIC; most are still the "g" type.

SUMMERY

Simple... either build your own using the specifications listed here OR buy a Dell or an Apple computer (desktop or notebook) with a DVD/CDRW combo drive, most any HP Printer and/or HP Scanner, a UPS, and an 802.11g Router (wireless if you desire) to work with your DSL/Broadband Internet connection.  There, I said it.  Happy.  <grin!>